How to turn off parking brake in jeep cherokee

I have a 2019 Jeep Cherokee Latitude 4X4 that is completely dead. I tried jumping it and charging the battery and everything but I'm at the point now that I'm going to tow it somewhere. My new issue is that parking brake is on and I can't disengage it.

It's currently engaged and when I override the gear shift thing and put it in neutral I still can't move the vehicle because the parking brake is on. I keep pushing the button to release it but nothing happens. The orange light on the button just turns on whenever I push it. I tried doing it with the vehicle in park and the door closed like the manual says it needs to be but that didn't help.

I have a 2019 Jeep Cherokee Latitude 4X4 that is completely dead. I tried jumping it and charging the battery and everything but I'm at the point now that I'm going to tow it somewhere. My new issue is that parking brake is on and I can't disengage it.

It's currently engaged and when I override the gear shift thing and put it in neutral I still can't move the vehicle because the parking brake is on. I keep pushing the button to release it but nothing happens. The orange light on the button just turns on whenever I push it. I tried doing it with the vehicle in park and the door closed like the manual says it needs to be but that didn't help.

You can't. I spent 4+ hours one time to get enough power to get the brake to release.

Assuming it is still power and not something with the electronics, the tow driver will be able to get enough power to get you moving, even if they remove/bypass the existing battery and use a different one.

However, the parking brake is in the rear, so assuming you are pulled in front-forward, they can also lift up the rear and pull you out.

Found this on page 264 of the 2019 Owner's Manual:
Fortunately, actuator retraction can be done easily
by entering the Brake Service Mode through the Uconnect
Settings in your vehicle.
Still need a functioning electrical system.
I don't know how to use Uconnect.

Ugh

you can't. I spent 4+ hours one time to get enough power to get the brake to release.

Assuming it is still power and not something with the electronics, the tow driver will be able to get enough power to get you moving, even if they remove/bypass the existing battery and use a different one.

However, the parking brake is in the rear, so assuming you are pulled in front-forward, they can also lift up the rear and pull you out.

fml

Found this on page 264 of the 2019 Owner's Manual:
Fortunately, actuator retraction can be done easily
by entering the Brake Service Mode through the Uconnect
Settings in your vehicle.
Still need a functioning electrical system.
I don't know how to use Uconnect.

Right. My "you can't" is because of no power. If he had power, he could use the e-brake lever. Seems like a silly option to have in the U-Connect settings, unless it opens it even further than normal.

Sounds like a tow truck with wheel dollies is needed and take it back to the dealer. Obviously, can't be fixed at home. This really sucks as I use the auto brake feature, and if something goes, I will be SOL.

Keep us posted as to what the resolution is and good luck.

To remove and replace the rear brake pads or rotors, the electronic parking brake actuator must be retracted before removing the caliper assembly. This can be done using a scan tool that can put the system into Service Mode or by using the UConnect touchscreen to engage Service Mode. The Service Mode can be accessed through the service menu.
This is the link so you can see the screen picture:
https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/brake-job-jeep-cherokee-kl-rear-brake-pad-replacement/

Does anyone know how to do this using UConnect?

Chrysler advises the negative battery cable should be disconnected during service. If the electric park brake (EPB) switch is actuated with the caliper removed from the caliper bracket and still connected electrically, the EPB motor will fully extend causing damage to the caliper piston. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable before servicing any EPB component.

To remove and replace the rear brake pads or rotors, the electronic parking brake actuator must be retracted before removing the caliper assembly. This can be done using a scan tool that can put the system into Service Mode or by using the UConnect touchscreen to engage Service Mode. The Service Mode can be accessed through the service menu.
This is the link so you can see the screen picture:
https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/brake-job-jeep-cherokee-kl-rear-brake-pad-replacement/

Does anyone know how to do this using UConnect?

Chrysler advises the negative battery cable should be disconnected during service. If the electric park brake (EPB) switch is actuated with the caliper removed from the caliper bracket and still connected electrically, the EPB motor will fully extend causing damage to the caliper piston. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable before servicing any EPB component.

Matter of fact I just posted a video today on how to do a brake job on a KL (or on a 200) and you see the UConnect setting clearly : https://jeepcherokeeclub.com/4-2014...6516-rear-calliper-removal-4.html#post2897900

Problem here is OP has no power. None, just barely enough for interior lights sometimes. There's a major electrical issue going on and he can't jump start it either. Still working on that...

One guy on YT is talking about EPBs in general (not FCA specific) and says some can be disengaged manually, by first removing the electric motor housing from the caliper (or something like that). However, he mentions not all rear brake systems with EPB have a removeable motor assembly... And yes you are right about activating the EPB with the caliper off : disaster... and $$$.

When I go off road when commercial recovery is not available I should deactivate automatic EPB application by turning off the feature in UConnect?
My original plan was to use a real good AGM battery and testing regularly to make sure it is in good condition.
Also insulated it real good so it does not get too warm when off road.
Usually when off road and I need to be stopped for a while I leave the Cherokee running, trying to avoid the "it won't start" syndrome.
The Cherokee can idle all day and never overheat. Thinking Camp Jeep.

Went to Criswell Jeep in Gaithersburg, MD.
The Service Advisor checked with a mechanic and they can do something with the rear hub and remove a bolt to remove the EPB.
Kind of a vague explanation but apparently they have a plan.
Doesn't sound like something I would try out on the trail.

UConnect and scan tool accomplish the same thing

Right. My "you can't" is because of no power. If he had power, he could use the e-brake lever. Seems like a silly option to have in the U-Connect settings, unless it opens it even further than normal.

From what I have read UConnect and the dealers scan tool accomplish the same thing.
UConnect just allows the Shade Tree Mechanic to do the same thing.

When I go off road when commercial recovery is not available I should deactivate automatic EPB application by turning off the feature in UConnect?

If the idea is to not have it lock up if the battery fails, then you won't use it when you need to. I find the automatic EPB handy when off-road. If I stop on a steep incline I know it's there if I put the vehicle in park. Hate to keep the vehicle depending on the parking pawls in the transmission to keep it from rolling off. I would think if it was turned off only for off-roading, it would be easy to forget when you need it most. Then if you engage it manually, you are back to having it on if the battery goes bad!

I carry one of those little "personal power supplies" (PPS) in my bug-out bag. I haven't needed it with my Cherokee yet, but I did have to use it on my Liberty. I had a completely dead battery and the little bugger jumped life into the Libby just fine! Also used it to jump-start the JK without a problem. Good peace of mind when off-road, or on-road for that matter. Works great to charge the cell phone too. If you are going for a multiple-day adventure, or if you use it to jump-start 12 buddies on the trail, it can be recharged with the 12VDC adapter (when the engine is running, of course). It will hold a charge for weeks, but I still need to remember to take it out and charge it once in a while so it's ready when I need it.

I had my old PPS for several years. It finally went belly up. Antigravity sent me a new one for free despite being way out of warranty. Now THAT's customer service! Jeep could take a lesson here!

https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/micro-starts/xp-1/

Didn't like my idea either. Your idea is great. I am charging all kinds of things when I am off road. Even my electric chain saw using the AC outlet.
A lot better than carrying another Group 94R battery in the trunk.
This allows me to use UConnect to release the EPB.
Do you recommend any particular Antigravity model that would be best for off road use?
The price for any of them is reasonable. A lot less than what I paid for my AGM battery.
Should be able to use it to power my tire pump after airing down.

Do you recommend any particular Antigravity model that would be best for off road use?

Should be able to use it to power my tire pump after airing down.

I have the XP-1 which has worked just fine. Not sure if it's "best". Haven't tried to use it for sustained use like airing up tires. I connect directly to my main battery. That way the alternator is doing part of the work at low idle and all of it at high idle. In fact, in my JK I have a load-sensing tune that will automatically up the engine RPMs when it detects the winch or air compressor is being used. Nothing like that for the Cherokee, though.

I think "Mark" said this above, but "no power, can't jump start" kinda means more than battery problems? How much juice would it take to turn off e-brake? You would think once a fully charged battery was hooked up to jump start that would be enough power?

Could he have one of those new fangled two battery ESS Cherokees I read about in another thread? I didn't even know they existed??

Go Jeep!!!

I think "Mark" said this above, but "no power, can't jump start" kinda means more than battery problems? How much juice would it take to turn off e-brake? You would think once a fully charged battery was hooked up to jump start that would be enough power?

Could he have one of those new fangled two battery ESS Cherokees I read about in another thread? I didn't even know they existed??

Go Jeep!!!

Haha... First off, I'm the one who wrote about a 2-battery Cherokee in the other thread, but I'll be clear : it was (is) a mistake in a canadian 2019 Cherokee brochure. Unless proven otherwise, no Cherokee (KL) has two batteries like GCs and Wranglers.

About the jump starting situation : let's say you have a defective battery connected (the car's battery) and you try to charge it : it won't charge, or not charge enough to achieve cranking power. Now if you try to boost that vehicle and the battery in it has a defective cell or whatever major defect, it might not allow current to flow into the circuit so the boost would fail... even if the *booster* is a super healthy super powerful current source. A defective battery disrupts the circuit, so nothing flows... or dosen't flow enough to be effective ( = starting your engine).

But this is the e-brake thread

About the jump starting situation : let's say you have a defective battery connected (the car's battery) and you try to charge it : it won't charge, or not charge enough to achieve cranking power. Now if you try to boost that vehicle and the battery in it has a defective cell or whatever major defect, it might not allow current to flow into the circuit so the boost would fail... even if the *booster* is a super healthy super powerful current source. A defective battery disrupts the circuit, so nothing flows... or dosen't flow enough to be effective ( = starting your engine).

I had a 2006 Chev Impala SS that wouldn't start one day after stopping to pick my kids up from school. Key turn resulted in just a click, hardly any power to the car. Called a tow truck for a boost and it didn't work so I had it towed to the dealer. They replaced the battery and every thing was good again. They said sometimes the batteries fail so completely that even boosting won't start the car. (cost me $300 for the tow and battery) Had I know that I would have just gone and got a new battery. Lesson learned.