Belt driven hydraulic pump for garden tractor

This is my mess, just starting to think:

//www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?p=594052#post594052

Don't get too deep into that!!!! I MUST keep the length short, so I'm thinking of "how to drive" the pump, which is probably going to be replaced, anyhow.

Driving off the front shaft obviously adds length that I may not have. Anyone belt drive? Timing, V, etc?

(Our old "Farmall Regular" had homemade hydraulics, and worked just fine with V belt drive, I think it was one 7/8 belt)

I don't suppose you want to chain drive the thing, at the RPM of modern power?

u can chain drive it stait off the motor this will also give u the ability to speed up the pump if its a little on the small displacemennt size but u cant like double it if u get what im saying

Well V belt may work depending on the size of the pump. A dubble V setup will be a little better. A toothed belt, like a timing belt would be a nice setup.

Might be able to couple a hydraulic pump mounted on the frame,right to the harmonic balancer,like the Ford farm tractors did,using a double U-joint dewhickey that bolts onto the pulley bolts,and has a keyed hole for the pump shaft..zero belt slippage !..be sure your pump is rated for the rpm's the engine could reach though..some need reduction..

I drove a ramp truck that had a belt driven hydraulic pump mounted on the engine,had double 1/2" belts--put out 21 GPM,and I never heard a squeal out of the belts when using the tilt-slide bed or the hydro-winch on it..they sell similar pumps with a 12 GPM output for dump bodies and plows too,that have just one belt,both have electric clutches like an A/C pump ,and I tend to think they must not have much strain on the belts,cause those electric clutches usually would slip before the belts would..I dont see why a v-belt setup wont work,though you may need double belts if its a big pump..

Might be able to couple a hydraulic pump mounted on the frame,right to the harmonic balancer,like the Ford farm tractors did,using a double U-joint dewhickey that bolts onto the pulley bolts,and has a keyed hole for the pump shaft..zero belt slippage !..be sure your pump is rated for the rpm's the engine could reach though..some need reduction..

I drove a ramp truck that had a belt driven hydraulic pump mounted on the engine,had double 1/2" belts--put out 21 GPM,and I never heard a squeal out of the belts when using the tilt-slide bed or the hydro-winch on it..they sell similar pumps with a 12 GPM output for dump bodies and plows too,that have just one belt,both have electric clutches like an A/C pump ,and I tend to think they must not have much strain on the belts,cause those electric clutches usually would slip before the belts would..I dont see why a v-belt setup wont work,though you may need double belts if its a big pump..

The point is I'm trying to reduce OAL of the engine/ trans, and I'm I'm thinking of not doing it that way. Othewise, it'd be a no brainer.

Chain drive, Uh? I'll have to think that over (I certainly don't need to speed it up on a modern engine, if anything, turn it slower)

The pump I mentioned on the ramp truck mounted above the motor,similar to how a plow pump would,so it would stick out no farther than the rest of the engine or its other accessories already did...

I don't know about chain drive,I'd think that would be pretty noisy--maybe the cogged belt drive would be better,no noise, and no slippage..maybe you could use some timing gears and a timing belt off a car like an Escort --finding gears to fit the pump shaft and crank might be difficult though....new ones can be had from W.W. Grainger ,but aren't that cheap either...

Yeah, when I first mentioned "timing belt" I was referring to a generic cogged belt, sometimes called a Gilmer

Chain--definately at the bottom, I think

If you're thinking of how to size a V-belt, you need to know the HP rating of the pump and the speed of the faster spinning shaft. The HP of the pump is GPM * PSI / 1716.

Then, after getting the right cross section size of the belt after looking at a chart like this one you can find out the minimum pulley diameter. If the minimum diameter is too large you need to jump to a double belt system or something else.

I used a single 1/2 inch "V" belt to run my pump. I'm running from a 6 inch pulley to a 5 inch pulley. No problem with belt slippage or wear and excessive belt tension isn't needed. I don't know the GPH of the pump but it's a pretty good size. You can see the pump in my tractor pictures.

I used a single 1/2 inch "V" belt to run my pump. I'm running from a 6 inch pulley to a 5 inch pulley. No problem with belt slippage or wear and excessive belt tension isn't needed. I don't know the GPH of the pump but it's a pretty good size. You can see the pump in my tractor pictures.

Thanks, that IS encouraging. I sold auto/ truck parts as well as industrial drive/ bearings/ etc for quite a few years. I understand the concept that larger pulleys have more friction. I'm really leaning this direction. Probably go 5/8 (B) belt.

belt drives would be no problem MF used it on their 4wd farm tractors the only trouble our 1895 gives is when pulleys get out of line on the drive coupling but then its over 30 yrs old now a little trouble is expected

My IH 500c had a rag coupler direct drive of of the crank.

I swapped it out for a chain coupler like Oliver uses in the drive line.