2015 hyundai genesis 3.8 oil change

Now that the new filter is ready to go, go back to your car and follow the above steps in reverse to reattach the filter to the car. *NOTE* once you get the filter hand tight, it will only need another 1/4 to 1/2 clockwise turn to the right to finish tightening the filter cap on. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN as this can damage the O-Ring seal and lead to leaks from premature failure. Once the filter is properly reinstalled. Completely remove the oil drain pan from underneath the car.

Next, locate your oil drain plug that you put aside and examine it. In the threading like the oil filter cap, there should be another rubber O-Ring. Like before, using your flat head screw driver gently pry off the old ring. Now locate the new O-Ring from your oil filter kit and install it onto your oil drain plug like you did with the oil filter cap. Once this is done, you may now reinstall the oil plug on the oil pan. Follow the same steps as above to hand tighten, the carefully finish off tightening the plug with your wrench. AGAIN - DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN to prevent damage to the O-Ring causing a possible premature failure and oil leakage.

Once the oil drain plug and filter are both re-secured, now look at the top of your engine. At the bottom right corner you will see the oil filler cap. Turning it counter-clockwise to remove it (I set it aside on the fuse box to the right). Now, get your 6 Qts of oil and your oil filling funnel. Place the funnel in the oil filler cap opening and carefully pour the first 5 Qts in completely. Be careful not to fill to quickly as depending on the nose to your funnel, the oil could backup and overflow on you causing a big mess to clean up.

Once you have the first 5 Qts in, carefully pour about 1/2 of the final 6th Qt bottle into the funnel as well. Now, check the oil dipstick located at the bottom and to the left of the engine. Pull it and wipe it off with your shop rag, reinsert it, and then remove it and examine the oil fluid level shown. You will probably be around 1/2 way between the L and the F. The Key here is to continue to carefully fill it until your get about 3/4 full according to the dip stick as you want as much oil as possible without going over the F level. I found that after pouring another 1/4 of the oil in, I reached about 3/4 level on the dipstick. Remember, each time you want to check the oil level on the dip stick, you should remove the dip stick, wipe it with your shop rag, reinsert it, and then remove it and check the level on the second removal.

Once the level of oil is correct, replace the oil dip stick and oil filler cap. The cap will turn clockwise until you hear it click indicating it is completely tight (similar sound and feel to your gas cap when you fill your car with fuel). At this point, secure the cap on the unused oil and set it aside. Proceed to get into your car and start it. Let it run for 2 or 3 minutes. As it is running for these few minutes, check underneath for any leaks from your oil plug and oil filter assembly to be sure they are tightened enough. Also verify the engine is not making any odd sounds or noises not noticed before. Finally, at the end of the 2 to 3 minutes, verify the oil temp is properly starting to rise like normal. BE CAREFUL RUNNING YOUR CAR IN ENCLOSED AREAS! I performed my oil change in my garage but leave the doors open. You do not want to choke yourself on your exhaust fumes. If everything looks good, turn the car off.

Finally, follow the above steps in reverse order to resecure your bottom plastic cowlings. Once done, remove the wheel chalks from your back wheels and slowly and carefully back off your ramps to where the car is flat on the level surface. Double check your dip stick again to verify the level looks good with your car now level and flat with the floor and not on an incline. If needed, add a bit more oil to get it to that 3/4 to F sweet spot on the dip stick. If everything still looks good, you now are finished with your oil change.

Be sure to place your used oil filter and rubber O-Rings along with carefully pouring your used oil into the carrying storage container to be taken to a local mechanic shop to be properly disposed of. NEVER POUR OIL DOWN A DRAIN OR ONTO GRASS OR DIRT! Oil damages the environment and is toxic to animal both wild and domestic (pets). Most shops will charge you a small fee, typically $5 or less to dispose of the oil. I personally have a good relationship with my local mechanic and because I do all my major services with him, he takes my old car fluids and disposes of them for free for me. Additionally, check your local work area and be sure to clean up any oil spills you find. If small, I use the shop rag and a little water to wipe up. If the spill is bigger, the best bet is to use an absorbent agent such as Cat liter to absorb and clump up the majority of the oil and sweep into a plastic bag to be throw away.

Congratulations! Your Gen Coupe now loves you more and you love your car more because she should be more peppy for having a fresh layer of oil to coat the old gears, pistons, etc. The first time you do an oil change yourself, especially if it is your first ever (like this one is for me), it will probably take about 1 hour to do. After that, additional changes will drop in time as you now know what to do and do not need to reference the guide as much or at all anymore. If you have any questions about the above DIY, please post or PM me and I will try my best to help you. Additionally, you can register for free at HMA Service to get a more overview step by step process of the above DIY along with schematic type diagrams for additional help if needed. Thanks.

Bill