2006 honda odyssey torque converter clutch solenoid location

Hi Forum,

Has anyone actually changed the faulty Torque Converter Clutch solenoid (28500-RDK-003) giving off the CEL P0741 and had success in getting rid of the CEL?

Also, I think it can be done entirely from the side of the transmission without dropping the pan... am I right?

It's supposed to be part #20 in the first diagram.

The second diagram is for the items that I think need to be removed to access the solenoid.

Any input would be great!

M

I don't have any advice concerning replacement of the solenoid, but was wondering if you were having any driving issues as a result, or was it just the code that popped up?

Hi Mike,

I get the code but, no performance issues. The code was there when I bought the truck.

It actually runs really well since I fixed the #5 misfire and it shifts without anything noticeably wrong. I'm just annoyed by the CEL.

Ah, cool, thanks for the reply.
Hopefully someone will chime in about replacing the part. Good luck!

Have you tried clearing the CEL and see if it popped back up?

Have you tried clearing the CEL and see if it popped back up?

Hi smufguy,
I bought this truck with the codes present. The original owner told me that the transmission was either changed or rebuilt (can't remember) last January.
I've reset the code many times. I've also changed the transmission fluid. There was nothing obviously wrong with the original fluid. There weren't any large shavings or too much accumulation of debris on the magnetic plug. The transmission shifts fine and works as it should as far as I can tell. It dosent seem to affect my gas mileage too much either. I get around 13.8 l/100km (17 MPG) in ~60% traffic, 40% highway.

To be clear, I think I've done all that I can do without opening the transmission (aside from changing the transmission control module, which would be the next logical step). I already bought the solenoid, I will receive it in a few weeks. I plan on tackling the job in early November but, I hope to get some input from others who have done it first. Either way, I'll make a "how to" as my contribution to this forum.

It doesn't look like too bad a job. I'm just not sure what is beyond the little cover that the solenoid hides under. Will it be full of fluid (even if I drain)? Do I need a gasket for the cover (doesn't look like it)? Is it as simple as removing the one bolt and replacing the solenoid? I think I found the official procedure once but, I somehow lost the link and havent been able to find it since.

Any help is appreciated!

M

I’d recommend going on eBay and buying an ‘06-‘08 FSM, Several are immediately downloadable & read to your content. Sorry but I haven’t read anything about what you’re asking

Hey All,

Just thought I would attach real pictures of what is in the diagrams at the beginning of this thread.

Update:

I ended up changing the TCC solenoid. I still get the check engine light. I'm going to double check all of my wiring and connections but, once that s done, I think my only option now is to wait and see.

Other Honda/Acura vehicles seem to have had this issue with the eventual end result most often being a replacement of the transmission. Although, I seem to remember reading somewhere here that someone got at least another 80,000 miles (with P0741) before having to change the transmission. I hope that is my case as well.

I am thinking of installing an additional transmission filter on one of the cooling lines. If something is falling apart inside the transmission, it may help prevent additional debris from causing problems.

M

More interesting reading on Honda transmissions in general.

This guy knows his stuff!

TransCooler

Update:

I ended up changing the TCC solenoid. I still get the check engine light. I'm going to double check all of my wiring and connections but, once that s done, I think my only option now is to wait and see.

Other Honda/Acura vehicles seem to have had this issue with the eventual end result most often being a replacement of the transmission. Although, I seem to remember reading somewhere here that someone got at least another 80,000 miles (with P0741) before having to change the transmission. I hope that is my case as well.

I am thinking of installing an additional transmission filter on one of the cooling lines. If something is falling apart inside the transmission, it may help prevent additional debris from causing problems.

M

Hey Mutulug,

I'm working on diagnosing a P0741 code on my 2006 Ridgeline RTL. I was wondering if there was a reason you changed the TCC solenoid in particular. I've done all the testing listed in the service manual. None of the solenoids tested bad. Only thing I've done is put a new gasket on the single linear solenoid assembly (28260-RDK-023) because that was broken. I thought that may have been my issue but my check engine light came back on when the monitors reset.

I'm putting a new gasket on the solenoid cover (28451-RDK-000)--the one that covers the 4 solenoid valves which you posted a picture of above-- because that one's deteriorated. However, it didn't appear to be leaking prior to my disassembly.

Beyond this, I am putting it all back together and hoping the battery being disconnected for an extended period of time will allow the computers to reboot and bring everything back to normal (maybe wishful thinking, hopefully not).

Also should note: prior to my doing anything, my dad said he noticed the RPMs ran high at higher speeds (as if it couldn't shift into 5th gear--a supposed symptom of P0741). The RPMs run normal now at high speeds, so I thought that initial gasket change fixed everything. But the check engine light came back on when the monitors reset.

Thanks for any insight.

More interesting reading on Honda transmissions in general.

This guy knows his stuff!

TransCooler

Hi Mutulug

I've come across your post because I seem to be having a similar issue. That is a big Transmission System Problem message appears on my dash which is listed as P0741. My Ridgeline is a 2017 model with about 90,000 miles. Never done any towing or even had a capacity load. Most of my miles are from cross country trips at high way speed. The message seems to appear at random. I have put 200 mile + trips with nothing but then it can appear 3-4 times a day. I think I'm in the same mode you are, waiting for something to break. But, in the meantime, I don't feel to secure taking the truck on any long trips; which is why I got it! I did notice that if I start the truck from a cold start the message doesn't appear. But if I stop, say for gas or lunch and restart it it will appear then.

So my questions are

1. Are you still in the waiting mode or have you been able to resolve the error?
2. Have you thought about contacting Honda Corporate to try to to see if they would recommend . Maybe they have some experience on what could be causing the error. .

My local dealer just says to replace the entire transmission at $9,000. which seems crazy because, like yours, my trans is working fine right now..

Also your posts were great. Thanks for sharing all that.

Hi Forum,

Has anyone actually changed the faulty Torque Converter Clutch solenoid (28500-RDK-003) giving off the CEL P0741 and had success in getting rid of the CEL?

Also, I think it can be done entirely from the side of the transmission without dropping the pan... am I right?

It's supposed to be part #20 in the first diagram.

The second diagram is for the items that I think need to be removed to access the solenoid.

Any input would be great!

M

Hi. I have 2017 awd v6 3.5 Ridgeline. When I’m driving smoth ,under 2000 rpm and car going to third gear starting to little like losing power and unviable shaking under the car (I can feel it )(just going to third gear,and for one second).
but,when going with 2000 rpm or over, nothing happening and everything is normal.
I changed transmission fluid and filter also.
and no engine lighton.
And I found just one time like months ago po741 torque conventor clutch something (I don’t remember exactly) in my scan tools (with no engine light on).
please help me find out what’s happening.
Thank you.

Hi. I have 2017 awd v6 3.5 Ridgeline. When I’m driving smoth ,under 2000 rpm and car going to third gear starting to little like losing power and unviable shaking under the car (I can feel it )(just going to third gear,and for one second).
but,when going with 2000 rpm or over, nothing happening and everything is normal.
I changed transmission fluid and filter also.
and no engine lighton.
And I found just one time like months ago po741 torque conventor clutch something (I don’t remember exactly) in my scan tools (with no engine light on).
please help me find out what’s happening.
Thank you.

Hi Dave,

I'm was also getting the same error message but my Ridgeline seems to be running normally and I have not gotten the message for a couple of weeks now and about 300 miles. If it helps here is a a like which explains the PO741 code. Good luck

Honda Ridgeline P0741 OBDII Transmission Code Diagnosis | Drivetrain Resource

P0741 is a very common OBDII trouble code. It's know to affect the Honda Ridgeline quite often. Here's what it means: P0741: Torque Converter Clutch Circuit → Performance or Stuck Off The Ridgeline uses a clutch in the torque converter to lock the engine and transmission together at highway...

Update:

I ended up changing the TCC solenoid. I still get the check engine light. I'm going to double check all of my wiring and connections but, once that s done, I think my only option now is to wait and see.

FWIW, none of the pictures you posted are of the TCC solenoid. The solenoid is, if you look at your post #1 in the second diagram, would be the part above gasket 10.

I get the code but, no performance issues. The code was there when I bought the truck.

It actually runs really well since I fixed the #5 misfire and it shifts without anything noticeably wrong. I'm just annoyed by the CEL.

The torque converter isn't locking up so the engine is reving higher at highway speeds. You might not notice it since the transmission already has 5 speeds, but gas mileage must be less than it could be and transmission fluid temperatures are also higher which isn't good. Also if you have emissions testing, it won't pass with the CEL on.

2008 honda pilot LX-VP
I have been getting the p0741 code for a while. Over a year. It seemed to not affect my performance but the light was enough to give me pause and start me digging in. As per the diagrams posted or the pictures above by mutulug - the solenoid (lock up) is on top of the tranny by the accumulator body - pn# 28020-PVG-305. However it isn't the only part of that whole circuit as indicated by the p0741 DTC. Below that - set vertically - is the linear solenoid or dual inline solenoid. That sits on the accumulator body with two connectors. One black and one brown. It's easy to check the lockup and dual solenoids for effective functioning by doing the 12v switching test for checking if it clicks and actually see if the shaft in them moves. Use battery to apply voltage to leads and observe. You can also do the ohms test to see if they are in the right ranges. They should be just above 5 ohms on both the tcc and the dual. By the way, no need to drop tranny to remove and test these. Getting to them is easy. Remove battery, battery shield and tray. Unbolt shifter cable to make room. Use small or right tools to get into tight spaces (two bottom bolts on the dual solenoid were the most difficult).

The part indicated that is usually the culprit for that DTC p0741 is under the cover where the dual solenoid sits. Remove 7 bolts and tap cover loose (Tap, not hammer). Once removed you will mow see the 4 senoids and the one relating to the code is at bottom right with black connector.

What I have done is changed all those solenoids with part numbers 28400-RDK-003 x 2 and 28500-RDK-003 x 2. I figured since I'm in there change everything for peace of mind. You can test these solenoids also same as above but the ohms should read between 12 to 25. For this specific one they all read 15.6 give or take ohms consistently. For switching test use the body of the solenoid for ground since they only have a single lead.

P.S.
When I tested all my solenoids they all tested good. No definite indication that one is faulty. All clicked, shaft moved and ohms tested within range.

Once I closed everything I started the engine and I noticed the green D blinking and got scarred and thought "wtf". Shifted through the gears and it was changing hard. WTF! .... turned off the engine and was about to go back in and reverse process. Then curiosity hit and I started up. No blinking D. Okay????... shifted through gears. Nice and smooth. Road test, went well. Came back and parked and put my reader on and I was now getting 83-01. I cleared it and hit the highways for about 40 miles round trip. No codes, parked and drove again next day no codes, and driving well, third day on cold engine rushing to home depot, the engine jumped twice. .... WTF. Continued driving and problem went away. Came home put on reader and still clean - no codes. Repeat next day no jumps and still no codes and running well. I must also state the the replaced parts were from Amazon - not oem - SINS. Trying to save a buck. Still keeping an eye on things but so far so good.

The typical conditions that would trigger the code on my Pilot to go from pending to current have been met several times over and still no p0741 code. No pending or current.

Hopefully this helps others and I will update should anything else arise...

Update,
On road test this morning my check engine, vsa and some other light came on and I lost power. Could barely gain speed but I hobbled home. Decided to reverse process but what I found is one of the 4 solenoids in the accumulator body that I replaced wasn't seated properly. It's a bit tricky to find but I realized what the issue was. Two solenoids are held in place by the same screw top right and bottom right. So on installing you have to ensure the right one goes in first or there will be a small gap that will cause you grief. You can tell they are in properly as you will feel a definite snap in when you push them into place.

Once I corrected that all fell into place without me having to clear codes.

Only items changed in this whole adventure were the solenoid assy. pack inside the accumulator body.

Hope this is useful to others ....